How to Choose a Reputable Pool and Spa Builder (and not get ripped off! )

Make sure the builder has a place of business

Reputable companies have a showroom with working displays of the pools, spas and equipment they sell and install. Unfortunately anyone can say they build pools. Hiring someone who will do the job for less could be very risky. If they don't show up to do or complete the job, how will you find them?


Will they do backyard consultations?

They will come to you. A reputable builder will take the time to understand what you want in a pool. They ask a lot of questions. They make sure you understand the process. They guarantee their work. Most of all they are NOT high pressure salesmen.


What is their reputation like?

Can you get references? Have they been in business for a long time? Do they service what they sell or do they subcontract the labor? Installing the pool or spa is just the first step in a long term relationship with a reputable pool and spa builder.


Are they insured?
Do you want someone working in your backyard that has NO insurance?


Good builders have nothing to hide.

How to Choose a Reputable Builder

How Do I Know If My Hot Tub Has a Leak?- Hot Tub Tips by James

LEAK DETECTION

　

Leaks can occur if your hot tub has been winterized improperly, pipes can freeze and crack. (Which is why we don't recommend ever winterizing any hot tub.)

Leaks can also occur if the hot tub water has been left chemically unbalanced over a long period of time, causing the glue around the fittings to deteriorate. This can be difficult to find, so here are some tips for you.

　

Inspect the drain cap…is it leaking?

Check the equipment compartment to determine if it is wet inside.

Check around the light lens. It could be cracked or the silicone may be deteriorated.

A check valve may be broken and leaking. The ozone unit has a check valve and also determine if an air intake valve is leaking.

Check the pumps, seals will erode over a period of time and will need to be replaced.

If the cabinet is dry and you find no leaks inside then you can move on and try these next steps:

Remove the pillows and filters from the hottub.

Fill the tub full of water and add 1-2 pints of Blue Dye to the water.

Power up the hottub and let the jet pumps run on high for at least 2 hours.

Afterwards drain the hottub.

Remove the side panel or panels.

Check for wet insulation and follow the trail of Blue Dye to find the leak.

　

　

　

STEP 4 How to Open Your Pool - Bringing all the Steps Together

Generally speaking, most of steps to open your swimming pool are simple and easy to understand:

Follow these steps or plan to attend Pool School, April 28th, 2012 (Saturday 11- Noon).

If you miss the school or are in need of our advice, bring a water sample to our store.

1. Drain, dry and remove a DRY winter cover off the pool.  This is to keep dirty water or debris on top of the winter cover from falling into the pool water. If a lot of water collected on top of the cover and pushed out the pool water underneath - CALL OR VISIT POOLCO BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE WATER OFF THE TOP OF THE COVER or your pool may become damaged.

2. Clean you cover with "Stow-Away" cover cleaner, fold and stuff into a large plastic garbage can with a lid. Protects the cover and helps it last longer. If is damaged or has numerous small holes, throw it away. Don't bother trying to get "one more year" out of it.

3. Inspect the pump, skimmer and filter before attaching to the pool. Change the sand in the filter, if needed. Inspect the filter hoses. If they are more than 2 years old they might need to be replaced. (Not worth taking the chance on them splitting during the pool season.) Attach all drain plugs. Inspect the skimmer for cracks. Lubricate the oring under the clear lid above the pump basket. Plug in the pump for 10-15 seconds. Does it sound smooth? Or not start at all? These are all things that are easier to do before you attach the entire system to the pool.

4. Connect the filter system to the pool.  Be sure that every connection, lid, plug, etc. are tight! Any gap (leak) in the system will either suck in air or drip water. (Air leaks will be covered in an upcoming post.)

5. If you use them, remove the winter plug from the return jet. Remove the cover plate from the front of the skimmer. Tighten the skimmer screws, be careful though to not over tighten them.

6. Finish filling the pool. Fill the pool until the water level is 2 inches below the top of the skimmer opening (inside the pool).

7. Backwash the filter for 3-5 minutes before you begin filtering the water. New sand will need to be backwashed longer. If you didn't chemically clean the sand last fall before closing your pool, consider doing this now. Chemically cleaning your sand is important. (Just imagine what your hair would look like after a month, if you didn't shampoo it.) Come see PoolCo for proper instruction on how to get the "Strip-Kwik" filter cleaner into your sand filter.

8. Before you begin filtering and stirring up the pool water, it's best to bring a sample of pool water to PoolCo for computerized water analysis.  We will help you balance and sanitize the water quickly and correctly. Most importantly, we can help you prevent problems (saving you time and money) before they have a chance to begin. We will customize a pool opening for you, based on what the water looks like, if the pool is partially in the ground, if the cover fell in, or what ever the situation may be. PoolCo is here to help!

Season Supply Savings going on right now during PoolCo's Algae Free Guarantee Sale!

Visit us or call 618-529-3200 for more information.

What to Do If Your Spa Is NOT Heating - Hot Tub Tips

What to do if your spa isn’t heating:

Make sure that your gfci breaker hasn’t tripped. If it has then reset it.

Check the water level in the spa, make sure that the water is high enough to go into the skimmer

Check your filters, are they dirty?

If your spa is having a low flow error (flashing lights on the control top), power down the spa and remove the filters, reset power. If the spa starts to heat again then the problem is with the filters. Just a hint: 90% of the time if a spa has an issue with heating….it’s the dirty filters.

If your spa has a weir gate, then make sure that its not stuck and slides down to let the water pass through. If you own an old Hot Spring Spa then you may have experienced this before.

If the spa does not start to heat after you have tried these things then you should give us a call at Poolco to schedule service. Our phone number is 618-529-3200.

High Limit Error on Hot Tub Control Pad - Hot Tub Tips

Q: What do I do if my hot tub has a “High Limit Error” message or Flashing Red light on the Control Panel?

A: Immediately turn off the power to the hot tub at the breaker box (GFCI).

Remove filters and inspect them. This would be a good time to go ahead and clean your filters.
 
Remember to clean with BioGuard Filter Cleaner and Degreaser once a month as well.
 
Make sure that the power has been off for at least 1 minute in order for the Hi Limit Sensor to reset.

With the filters out…go ahead and reset the power to the hot tub.

Take notice of whether or not your tubs 24 hour circulation pump is running, if your hot tub has an ozonator then you would see bubbles coming from the bottom or side of the footwell.

If you have done these steps and the hot tub is still giving an “Error” message or a Flashing Red Light…then you should give PoolCo a call at 618-529-3200 and schedule a time for service.

{PLEASE REMEMBER TO TEST YOUR GFCI ONCE A MONTH}

　

What are algae and how do I fight them?

ASK THE POOL AND SPA EXPERT

QUESTION: What are algae and how do I fight them?

ANSWER:

Algae grow in gutters, ponds and other water-holding fixtures and even soil surrounding a home. Wet conditions help facilitate the growth of algae, which can then be washed into the pool.  Algae spores can also enter the water via rain and wind.

BioGuard®, one of the leading manufacturers of pool and spa products, recommends a system approach to pool care to ensure the comfort and enjoyment of your swimming pool throughout the swimming season. 

Simple tips for pool care include:

• Weekly preventative algicide
• Weekly shock routine to eliminate unwanted contaminants
• Maintain a sanitizer residual in the range of 1- 4 ppm
• Brush your pool once a week

Following these easy steps can help prevent algae infestation all season.  In addition, bring in a water sample to the experts at Poolco your BioGuard dealer for a computerized analysis of your swimming pool water.

Biofilms and How to Treat Them

ASK THE POOL AND SPA EXPERT

QUESTION: What are biofilms and how do I treat them?

ANSWER:

A biofilm is a collection of microorganisms living together on a wet surface.  It can be described as a home for bacteria, fungi, algae and protozoa.  In a spa environment, a biofilm at the waterline is the perfect place for bacteria to grow protected from the sanitizer.  The biofilm will grow and spread as the microorganisms reproduce.  To remove it, clean spa surfaces thoroughly each time the spa is drained.  Frequently wipe the waterline (as much as every other day in heavy-use spas) in order to prevent the formation of new biofilms.  Be sure to use a cleaner that is specifically designed for spa use.   Never use household cleaners as damage to the spas surface may occur. 

As with any chemical program, proper maintenance is the key.  Always maintain an appropriate sanitizer residual to kill any new bacteria that may be introduced to the spa.  Shock the water weekly (or more often for heavy-use spas) to keep the water free of contaminants that can cause cloudy water and contribute to the buildup of scum line.  Always maintain proper water balance as the sanitizer will work better in properly balanced water.  Good water balance also helps protect spa surfaces and equipment from corrosion. 

For more information, bring a water sample to PoolCo, your BioGuard® dealer, for testing.  We can help you choose the right cleaning and maintenance products that will get you back to enjoying your spa worry-free. 

Kids and Hot Tubs

Top 10 Reasons Kids Love Hot Tubs by Jared Maichel


10.They will thaw you out in the winter
9.They are a great place to practice holding your breath
8.Jets massage growing muscles
7.They are relaxing
6.I don't have to shower that day
5.You can customize the lighting. My favorites are Macadamian Sunset & Pistachio Dream. I don't know why they are nut themed.
4.Another chance to annoy your parents
3.Making snow angels (Love that burn)
2.Great way to display my rubber duck collection.
1.They are fun

STEP 5: How to Open Your Pool - How to Attach and Vacuum Your Pool

There are several ways to attach your vacuum to your swimming pool. This method is the best for those new to swimming pool maintenance. Because the pump is turned off while you are attaching the vacuum, you are best able to keep the pump primed and not lose suction.

 

Vacuuming should be done once a week. The more a pool is used the less vacuuming you will do. (The dirt is dissolved into the water and able to reach the skimmer and main drain to be filtered, instead of sitting on the pool floor. Don't be fooled into believing that you don't have to vacuum if you have a main drain. More on why main drains are useless in a later post.)

 

A lot of pool owners prefer using an automatic pool cleaner, the Baracuda, Ranger or Wahoo to clean their pools. We will feature the Wahoo automatic pool cleaner in an upcoming post.

Troubleshooting

Tighten the skimmer connection?

No suction. The filter system has lost its prime (not sucking water). Could be many things. Air leak or a restriction in the system. Tighten all possible ways air can seep into system. Remove all restrictions: empty baskets, clear pump impeller, backwash. See PoolCo for a complete list of solutions.

Dirty water returning back to the pool. How dirty is the pool? You might be better off vacuuming on the waste or drain filter setting. See PoolCo for complete directions on how to do this.

Tighten lid on pump?
Replace pump lid oring or lubricate?
Replace pump plug oring?

Don't backwash too much! Only backwash when the circulation has slowed and the pressure gauge reads 10 lbs over normal pressure. If you backwash too often (thinking that it will help the filter to work better) you are actually slowing the sand's ability to clear the water. Small particles trapped in the sand are sticky. As they collect in the filter, they will help attact more and more particles. 

Algae Free Guarantee - PoolCo Peace of Mind

 The Basics

– Algae should not grow if you properly care for your pool.

– Algae will not grow if you use BioGuard products and follow

   one of our proven pool care systems.

– Algae can’t grow because you’ll get free product to kill it does! 

 

   

PoolCo Guarantees it!



Poolco Guarantees It!

PoolCo guarantees that if you, our valued customers,
follow one of our easy chemical programs,
your pool will remain FREE FROM ALGAE.







1. Follow a BioGuard Pool Program



If you follow our program and your pool develops algae, PoolCo will troubleshoot the chemical problem and...

GIVE YOU THE ALGAE  KILLING CHEMICALS FOR FREE that we feel are needed to clear your pool. 

2. Run the pump and filter

at least 10 to 12 hours a day.





Algae clearing chemicals included in our program are shock and algaecide products of our choice that we feel will eliminate your algae.  



3. Have your water tested every 4-6 weeks





Any other chemicals needed to balance the water (which should already be balanced according to our plans) or to help eliminate any non-algae problems such as mineral or pollen problems, etc. will be the sole responsibility of you, the consumer.                

 

 



4. Maintain BioGuard
Optimizer Plus at 30 to 50 ppm.



For the GUARANTEE to work, your pool must test in the proper sanitizer range and the pool must be balanced. Otherwise, we know that problems will develop.

If the pool tests properly and you have algae after following one of our algae-free plans, we will step up and give you the chemicals to kill the algae.

But guess what? If you follow our rules, we don't think you'll have to worry about it.

Visit PoolCo today and find out how to qualify for our

Algae Free Guarantee.   



Ask for a copy of how to qualify for  PoolCo's Algae Free Guarantee 



To be fair PoolCo cannot, obviously, be responsible for:

1. Algae present upon opening the pool or any algae problems present before starting one of our programs or algae due to the discontinuation of one of our programs.

2. Inadequate filtration - we recommend that you run your filter a minimum of 12 hrs per day.

3. Dirty filters - backwash and clean your filter as needed to maintain proper flow.

4. Improper maintenance - empty baskets regularly to maintain proper flow, vacuum and brush pool walls as needed.

5. Improper water balance - the key base to all plans is a balanced pool so that other chemicals work effectively and for swimming comfort and equipment care. This includes pool water displacement from rain during periods of heavy and continued days of rainfall and water displacement frequent topping off of pool water from your garden hose during periods of drought.  Generally speaking, bring your pool water in for testing and rebalance if more than 12 inches of new rain or fill water has been added to the pool in less than a week.

DUCKS!

How Your Sand Filter System Works

Here is what a sand filter looks like from the inside. The sand should be about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way of the filter.  ONLY USE SAND RECOMMENDED FOR SWIMMING POOL FILTERS!

The top of the filter is called the Dial Valve and changes the direction of the water flow through the filter.  You should always turn off the pump when turning the handle to a different position.

On the filter position the water will come from the pump and go down through the diffuser plate to displace the water over the sand.  Then it goes through the sand to be cleaned.  Then the cleaned water goes through the fingers, or laterals at the bottom up through the hub pipe and back to the pool.

Watch & learn about valve positions. 

Filter is the setting that you will run you filter most of the time to clean your pool.

Backwash is the setting you use to remove dirt that has collected on top of the sand in the filter. Backwashing is something you will have to do periodically.  Backwashing is cleaning out the debris that you caught in the filter.  The water goes the exact opposite way as when on the filter position.  It comes from the pump, down through the hub pipe.  One thing to note is that you should never vacuum on backwash.  All of the dirt and debris would go into the bottom of the pipe and laterals and clog them up or break them.  From the hub pipe the water goes through the laterals and up through the sand to release the debris.  The dirt and debris is then pushed out of the filter out the waste line. ne way to know if the filter is needing backwashing is to check the flow of water returning to the pool. Has it been several weeks since you last backwashed the filter or have you just vacuumed the pool? ... If a lot of dirt has collected on top of the sand in the filter,  the water returning to the pool will slow greatly. (You will also notice that you are getting little suction from your manual or automatic vacuum.) 

The best method to know when to backwash is to use the pressure gauge. (Pressure gauges often last just one pool season, as they are susceptible to corrosion. Be sure that it is working properly).  Make a note of where the pressure is after a thorough backwash of 3 – 5mins.  The pressure will be between 10 and 15 lbs depending on you distance from the pool the amount of sand in the filter and the size of your pump.  We’ll pretend that this one is 12 lbs when cleaned.  When the pressure rises 8 – 10 lbs above this level, which means when it reaches 20 to 22 lbs, that is when you backwash your filter.  You don’t have to do it every time you vacuum (if the pool isn't very dirty) or even once a week.  Letting the pressure go up actually helps your filter clean better.  But building up debris in the filter helps tighten up the sand and will catch the smaller particles in the water.  Letting the pressure rise up like this will make you water be cleaner and sparkle more. 

Also you should always backwash for a minimum of 3 minutes. This is important to get all of the debris out of the filter. Some of you might have a sight glass on the dial valve. We don't recommend watching and using this exclusively to determine how long to backwash. If you wait for it to go clear and stop you will only backwash for about a minute. That means that a lot of debris at the bottom of the filter doesn't get cleaned out. That debris is fine and it will look clear in the sight glass.  Therefore your filter will get build up much quicker and you will have to backwash more often.

If you backwash this way, by waiting for the pressure to build up 8-10 lbs and backwash for at least 3 minutes you will backwash about every 3 to 4 weeks.  And your water will never look better.

Rinse is setting you use after you backwash the sand.  After you have backwashed for at least 3 mins, you should put the filter to rinse for 30 to 60 seconds as it changes the direction of the water flow to help push all the sand back into place. Doing this "rinses" the dirty water inside the valve so it doesn't return back to the pool. Don't fret if you still get a small puff of dirt back into the pool, unless however it doesn't quit after approximately 15 - 20 seconds. For proper diagnosis, visit PoolCo. We may recommend a sand change or valve replacement depending on your situation.

Waste (or Drain) is used for draining water and (in certain necessary situations) fine and/or excessive dirt on the bottom of the pool floor.

Closed (or Test) is a great way to stop water from water flowing from the return side of the pool. Why is that cool?

When you need to remove the pump lid to empty the pump basket! (Just use a hand towel to plug the skimmer side, if you wish to stop the flow completely.)

Recirculate (or Whirlpool) used primarily for troubleshooting. The water goes only throught the valve and NOT through the sand filter. If your circulation appears to be slowing, put the dial valve to recirculate. If the circulation improves you know your filter media is the culprit. Backwash or chemically clean the sand with Strip Kwik. If circulation does not improve, then change the sand.

Winterize use this setting only when you winterize the pool. Factory installed orings inside the valve are opened to keep them from sticking together during the off-season.

STEP 3: How to Open Your Pool - How to Attach Your Pump and Filter System to Your Above Ground Pool

 Attaching your pump and filter system to pool is simple if you follow these step by step instructions:

• Pool hoses (2) 3' to 6' in length*
• Pump to filter hose (1) - this is made from a different material than the Pool hoses
• Metal clamps
• Screwdriver
• Teflon plumbers tape

Set the pool pump and filter system by your pump's power source and close enough to the pool skimmer for your hoses* to reach and connect them together.

This should be on a flat dry surface, preferably on paving stones or patio blocks.

Attach the first hose to the bottom of the pool skimmer outlet by sliding it over the outlet spout and securing it with a metal clamp holding it in place.

Now, attach the other end of this hose to the inlet on the pool pump with another metal clamp in the same manner. Pull on both connections with your hands to make sure they are tight.

Attach the next hose to the pump outlet and to the filter inlet as per manufacturer's instructions.

This hose is usually shorter and fatter than the other two hoses connected to the pools skimmer and inlet and will install according to manufacturer's directions. Make sure these connections are tight.

Flexible PVC (pictured here) is an excellent choice for this connection. Visit Poolco for the easiest way to attach this type of hose to your filter system. (We keep plenty of Flex PVC in stock.)

Attach the second pool hose to the filter outlet by again sliding the end of the hose over the spout and securing it with another metal clamp.

Slide the other end of this hose over the pool inlet spout on the side of your pool and secure it with the metal clamps.

Fill the pool about one inch from the top of the skimmer opening (inside the pool).

Turn on the pump with the filter in the recirculate or whirlpool setting. (Don't set on "filter" setting until after you have backwashed sand first.)






Now you can begin to inspect for leaks and tighten connections as needed. This topic is covered in our next blog entry.

STEP 2: How to Open Your Pool - Before You Remove the Winter Cover

The winter pool cover should be free of all water and debris.

You just don't want to risk ANYTHING from on top of the cover getting into the pool. That "stuff" on top of the cover is the nutrient rich food for algae and bacteria. Take the extra time to siphon off as much of the water off the top of the cover as you possibly can. What looks like just "a few gallons of water", will turn out to be 100 lbs or more of water. Just too heavy for one or two people to heave over the side of the pool.

Here's PoolCo's recommendation:

The night before  Start siphoning the top of the winter cover the night before what is predicted to be a sunny and slightly windy day. (*See Below)

Early the next morning  Early the next morning, attach the leaf net skimmer to vacuum pole. Extend the pole and use the leaf net to spread any remaining water ( that can't be siphoned ) across the surface of the pool. Now would be a good time to begin setting up your pump and filter system. Or you can busy yourself with other outdoor projects for several hours.

Later that afternoon  Most of the time when you return later in the afternoon and the cover will be completely dry. Now you can loosen the plastic coated wire to free the cover. If you have a few (3-5) large plastic clamps, attach these to one end of the pool. Now when you start dragging the cover off from the other side, you should be able to keep anything from going into the water.

Clean your winter cover
with BioGuard Stow-Away

                                        



* Do not mistakenly pump water from the pool.   

Older and lighter weight winter covers can allow a minimal exchange of water between the pool cover surface and the pool itself.  Also, a minor hole in the cover can allow a much greater exchange of water.  When pumping water from the cover, we strongly recommend that the water level on top of the cover be monitored closely to avoid pumping a large amount of water from underneath the cover.  Resecuring the cover to make it more taut  when the water on top of the cover is reduced can help eliminate erroneous removal of  pool water. Try placing a "frisbee" - top side down - under your siphon or pump. This should direct water from on top of the pool cover to the frisbee.

Cover Saver siphon available at PoolCo
Save $5.00 Off, while supplies last

 Algae Free Guarantee Sale

SAVE NOW! All the perfect pool products you need to get started this spring are at Poolco

PoolCo Website

STEP 1: How to Open Your Pool - Plan To Open Your Pool Before Mother's Day

How to Open your pool video

Don’t open too late this spring!

If  the pool was closed properly, winterizing chemicals are made to properly WORK for a maximum of about 4 months. If the pool is going to be closed for a longer period of time (example closing before October 1 and opening after May 1), it is absolutely necessary to add additional shock and algaecide to the winterizing process.

Some pools should also apply additional doses of winterizing chemicals late fall and early spring. To prevent damage to your pool's surface, see PoolCo for how to properly add chemicals to the pool while covered. This will help to prevent not only algae growth but chlorine and SoftSwim C demand at pool opening.

Optimizer Plus®
Highly recommended for any pool: closed before Oct 1st
opened after May 1st.



Algae Free Guarantee Sale

SAVE NOW! All the perfect pool products you need to get started this spring are at Poolco

PoolCo Website

Something Must Be Wrong With These Test Strips...Or Is It Chlorine Demand?

Chlorine Demand

Definition of Chlorine Demand

High chlorine demand is the inability to keep adequate chlorine in pool water, even though the water is balanced and properly maintained. Various contaminants increase oxidation levels, consuming chlorine faster than it can be replaced by automatic feeders or normal shocking. Symptoms include slimy or slick pool walls and cloudy water (although water can be clear and still have a high chlorine demand). A sudden drop in cyanuric acid can be an indicator that there is a chlorine demand problem, as the CYA reading is often masked by the demand. If this occurs, do not add stabilizer.

Another form of chlorine demand is a high level of combined chlorine that cannot be broken by successive shock applications. Often this is caused by the presence of ammonia in the water. This can come from fertilizers, pesticides, and even fill water.

High chlorine demand can be frustrating to solve. It may be caused by a number of factors and is especially common during spring start-up. For outdoor pools subject to many environmental factors, it may not be possible or feasible to isolate the exact cause. However, this is less important than beginning immediate elimination.

NOTE:  A zero chlorine reading does not necessarily indicate that there is no chlorine in the pool. The chlorine level may be so high that it is bleaching the color out of the reagent.

Common causes of Chlorine Demand

Chlorine resistant algae, fungus or bacteria: An infestation can exhaust normal chlorine levels and require a specially formulated algicide to solve the problem. Often, the growth is not visible on the pool surface itself. Pink slime and water mold are notorious for growing first inside lines, skimmers, and behind light niches before becoming visible. Growth in these areas can continue to deplete chlorine levels steadily until removed.

Nitrogen contamination:  Lawn fertilizers and other nitrogen products in pool water produce a high level of chloramines, which require larger amounts of chlorine for oxidation.

Source water: Lake water is usually contaminated with algae, metals, and other debris, and should not be used to fill pools. Well water may have some of the same problems. Even local municipal water supplies can create high chlorine demand, especially if the contain chloramines. Every time fill water is added to the pool, chloramine and nitrogen levels rise, requiring more chlorine. Shocking after fill water addition helps prevent excessive chloramine levels in this situation, as does avoiding the addition of large amounts of fill water at a time.

Rain and Pollution: Contaminants from factories, highways, airports, and other sources may be deposited in pool water, especially during rainfalls. Clouds sometimes transport pollution over long distances. Rain and wind also carry algae spores, leaves and other debris which raise chlorine demand. During the winter, stagnant water in uncovered pools exposed to air, rain, and snow often develop chlorine demand problems. Older pool covers will develop pin holes as the fabric weave stretchs from the weight of heavy water and/or the force of strong wind. These small holes allow fine particles and the contaminated water on top of the cover to pass through to the

winterized pool water under the cover.

High bather loads: A large crowd using the pool over a few days can introduce a lot of undesirable compounds, (such as perspiration, cosmetics and suntan oils), into the water. Requiring all swimmers to shower before swimming can help prevent this. Shock after any heavy bather load.

Eliminating Chlorine Demand

The best way by far to handle chlorine demand is to perform a chlorine demand test. This test is contained in a separate lab available to BioGuard Dealers. This test can give the exact amount of chlorine needed to break the demand. In some cases, this may be quite high. It may be a more feasible option to perform a partial drain and refill with fresh water to reduce the demand. Performing this test can prevent a great deal of frustration by allowing you to make an educated product application.

Prevention of Chlorine Demand

To prevent chlorine demand, maintain proper chlorine residuals consistently, shock regularly, and avoid contaminating the pool with chemicals or foreign objects.

 Keep in mind…

S Some contaminants are oxidized quickly and some are oxidized very slowly

• It depends on the nature of the contaminant

S It may be impossible to determine the exact cause of chlorine demand, however it is not usually relevant to treatment