Don't Wait Too Late to Prepare Your Pool for Summer Fun

Winterizing chemicals only last through the winter! 

As temperatures rise in the spring, the water under the pool cover begins to heat up. Even though the pool is not exposed to the sun, the warm water under the cover begins to encourage the growth of bacteria, water molds and algae. Very quickly, any traces of sanitizing chemicals left in the water disappear as they react with the growing organisms. This leaves the pool water unprotected. This has now become the perfect environment for bacteria, water molds and algae to grow and multiply very rapidly.

Problems always cost more than prevention!

Some pool owners think they are saving money by waiting until the end of May or early June to uncover and begin operating their pool for summer. This couldn't be further from the truth.

Consider the following, CHEMICALLY, you would need:

For a really green 10,000 gallon pool, you would need, on the average at least 10 lbs (usually much more) of a superchlorinating product, a bottle of flocculant, a bottle of stronger-more costly algaecide to fix the problem.

For the same sized pool, opened 4 weeks earlier, you would need on the average 1lbs of superchlorinating product per week, 2-3 Smart Sticks per week, 3 ounces of algaecide per week.

Not factored into the first scenario above...YOUR TIME and TROUBLE!

BELOW: Steps to open your above ground pool: (For a personal prescription and friendly advice, bring us a water sample! We will tailor your opening to your needs.)

Plan to attend Pool School at POOLCO!

Clean the cover with BioGuard StowAway (or it WILL SMELL really, really bad next fall when you need to winterize your pool!) Do yourself a favor and dispose of any cover that has developed pinholes from the cover fabric pulling apart (or you will be pumping pool water from under the cover next spring when you open the pool....)

Tighten all hose connections -  SUPER TIGHT! 

Tighten connections

The manufacture of flexible filter system connection hose recommends changing these annually. 

Biofilms develop inside the hoses that will require additional chemical treatment. 

In addition to this, the sun is very harsh and drying on the plastic. The bend in the hose can crack and then leak (and unwanted "fountain"...)

Remove skimmer plate.

How high is the water level? If there is enough water added to the pool - and the water is clear (you can easily see the bottom) - then beginning running the filter system.

Immediately test and chemically treat the pool water.  Winterizing chemicals are often used up by end of April, sometimes sooner, if winter and spring temperatures were above average.

Bring a sample of water (16 ounce) to POOLCO for a complete water analysis. We will make opening dosage recommendations and customize your instructions based on your pool's needs, your budget and your time!

Run the filter 24 hours a day for several days until the water clarity and chemical balance are perfect! Then you may reduce filter time to 8 - 12 hours per day (with the use of a timer - or you WILL forget to run filter!)

** If there is a layer of fine dirt (or worse) on the bottom of the pool you must remove this from the pool. Come see us with a water sample for how to best handle this situation.

Our friendly advice is always free!

PoolCo Pool Care Video (1998) Part 1

New to pool ownership?

Perhaps you will appreciate and enjoy PoolCo's
"How To Care for Your PoolCo Pool" Video.

Over 14 years ago, we included this video with any new pool purchased at PoolCo. (Proof, yet again, of how dedicated to customer service we were and are.)With the wide spread use of high speed internet, we are able to now share this video on our blog.

Please now enjoy Part 1: How Operate Your Filtration System.

Produced by us in 1998, we are in the process of updating product images.

However, you should find our 14 year old video to be quite helpful in understanding how to operate your filter system, to properly add pool chemicals, routine maintenance, etc.

Trouble-shooting Air Leaks in Filter System

What is an Air Leak?

An "Air Leak" is any point where air (a little or a lot) can get into the suction side of the filtration system.

If any of these symptoms are occurring, chances are that you have an air leak. This situation, while seemingly confusing and difficult, is actually really easy to eliminate.

One important thing to remember with an air leak is the you can have a leak without having water leak out.

Air leaks occur when the pump is turned on and for whatever reason air is pulled (sucked) into the system.

One way is from a small crack or hole from the pump motor seal to anywhere back to the water level of the pool.

Another way is any interrruption in the flow of water to the pump that causes the pump to lose its prime. (For example: not having all the air out of the vacuum hose or connecting the vacuum hose to the skimmer too slowly or with the pump on. More explanation to come.)

Why is it a problem?

Large air leaks can greatly reduce the suction from the pump. No suction means vacuuming the pool is nearly impossible. Automatic pool cleaners will start briefly, only to top and just sit at the bottom of the pool. Extremely frustrating...if you don't know how to solve the problem.

Here is a list of what check for a leak.

Our suggestion is to check the most common causes first.

If those don't solve the problem, then procede to the less common causes.

The most common examples of air leaks:

Most common cause: not enough water in the pool or missing skimmer weir. If you see a small whirlpool in the skimmer, then this is most likely where the air is coming from.

Second most common cause: you have just emptied the pump basket and forgot to completely tighten the clear lid on the pump. Having trouble getting the unscrewing the lid on the pump? See "How to avoid an air lock".

Third most common cause: while attaching the vacuum hose to the pool, too much air gets in. Try attaching the vacuum hose to the vacuum plate adaptor WITH THE PUMP MOTOR OFF. You can take your time and attach it properly. With the motor on, you must be very fast while making the connections. For a visual example,  Check out PoolCo's Video "How to Attach Your Vacuum"

Other possible solutions:

Check the hose connection from the bottom of the skimmer and the hose connection from the front of the pump. The hose clamps must be extremely tight. A small sliver of duct tape, the width and length of your pinky finger, wrapped around the fitting before you slip on the hose, is often helpful to create a complete seal.

Consider replacing this hose if it is over 2 years old. The sun is really hard on anything that is exposed to it day after long hot day. A small pinhole can develop that will be undetectable, even upon close inspection.

Check the orings on the clear lid above the basket and the pump plug(s). Are there any fine cracks the air could seep into? If they look worn or are several years old, they should be replaced.

Definitely lubricate the oring with a silicome based grease. Don't use vasoline.

Check the bottom of the skimmer for hair-line cracks.

Check the bottom of the pump lint body (holds the basket) for hair-line cracks.

Replace the pump seal.

If you aren't getting good circulation, it may not be an air leak, but an obstruction that isn't allowing the water to flow back to the pool at the proper rate.

Possible obstructions that can greatly reduce flow:

Pump and/or  skimmer baskets are full of leaves, bugs, pine needles, etc. Empty them.

Pool filter needs to backwashed, chemically cleaned or replaced.

Pump impellor is jammed with pine needles or small twigs that can slide through holes in the baskets. Unplug the pump and remove these.

Pool hose from the skimmer to the pump has collapsed and is sucked shut. Replace it.

Automatic or manual vacuum has a rock, sweet gum ball, twig blocking the opening at the vacuum head.

A solar heater can slow your flow down. ( a lot of tubing for the water to flow through).

A pool fountain can slightly slow your flow down.

STEP 4 How to Open Your Pool - Bringing all the Steps Together

Generally speaking, most of steps to open your swimming pool are simple and easy to understand:

Follow these steps or plan to attend Pool School, April 28th, 2012 (Saturday 11- Noon).

If you miss the school or are in need of our advice, bring a water sample to our store.

1. Drain, dry and remove a DRY winter cover off the pool.  This is to keep dirty water or debris on top of the winter cover from falling into the pool water. If a lot of water collected on top of the cover and pushed out the pool water underneath - CALL OR VISIT POOLCO BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE WATER OFF THE TOP OF THE COVER or your pool may become damaged.

2. Clean you cover with "Stow-Away" cover cleaner, fold and stuff into a large plastic garbage can with a lid. Protects the cover and helps it last longer. If is damaged or has numerous small holes, throw it away. Don't bother trying to get "one more year" out of it.

3. Inspect the pump, skimmer and filter before attaching to the pool. Change the sand in the filter, if needed. Inspect the filter hoses. If they are more than 2 years old they might need to be replaced. (Not worth taking the chance on them splitting during the pool season.) Attach all drain plugs. Inspect the skimmer for cracks. Lubricate the oring under the clear lid above the pump basket. Plug in the pump for 10-15 seconds. Does it sound smooth? Or not start at all? These are all things that are easier to do before you attach the entire system to the pool.

4. Connect the filter system to the pool.  Be sure that every connection, lid, plug, etc. are tight! Any gap (leak) in the system will either suck in air or drip water. (Air leaks will be covered in an upcoming post.)

5. If you use them, remove the winter plug from the return jet. Remove the cover plate from the front of the skimmer. Tighten the skimmer screws, be careful though to not over tighten them.

6. Finish filling the pool. Fill the pool until the water level is 2 inches below the top of the skimmer opening (inside the pool).

7. Backwash the filter for 3-5 minutes before you begin filtering the water. New sand will need to be backwashed longer. If you didn't chemically clean the sand last fall before closing your pool, consider doing this now. Chemically cleaning your sand is important. (Just imagine what your hair would look like after a month, if you didn't shampoo it.) Come see PoolCo for proper instruction on how to get the "Strip-Kwik" filter cleaner into your sand filter.

8. Before you begin filtering and stirring up the pool water, it's best to bring a sample of pool water to PoolCo for computerized water analysis.  We will help you balance and sanitize the water quickly and correctly. Most importantly, we can help you prevent problems (saving you time and money) before they have a chance to begin. We will customize a pool opening for you, based on what the water looks like, if the pool is partially in the ground, if the cover fell in, or what ever the situation may be. PoolCo is here to help!

Season Supply Savings going on right now during PoolCo's Algae Free Guarantee Sale!

Visit us or call 618-529-3200 for more information.

STEP 3: How to Open Your Pool - How to Attach Your Pump and Filter System to Your Above Ground Pool

 Attaching your pump and filter system to pool is simple if you follow these step by step instructions:

• Pool hoses (2) 3' to 6' in length*
• Pump to filter hose (1) - this is made from a different material than the Pool hoses
• Metal clamps
• Screwdriver
• Teflon plumbers tape

Set the pool pump and filter system by your pump's power source and close enough to the pool skimmer for your hoses* to reach and connect them together.

This should be on a flat dry surface, preferably on paving stones or patio blocks.

Attach the first hose to the bottom of the pool skimmer outlet by sliding it over the outlet spout and securing it with a metal clamp holding it in place.

Now, attach the other end of this hose to the inlet on the pool pump with another metal clamp in the same manner. Pull on both connections with your hands to make sure they are tight.

Attach the next hose to the pump outlet and to the filter inlet as per manufacturer's instructions.

This hose is usually shorter and fatter than the other two hoses connected to the pools skimmer and inlet and will install according to manufacturer's directions. Make sure these connections are tight.

Flexible PVC (pictured here) is an excellent choice for this connection. Visit Poolco for the easiest way to attach this type of hose to your filter system. (We keep plenty of Flex PVC in stock.)

Attach the second pool hose to the filter outlet by again sliding the end of the hose over the spout and securing it with another metal clamp.

Slide the other end of this hose over the pool inlet spout on the side of your pool and secure it with the metal clamps.

Fill the pool about one inch from the top of the skimmer opening (inside the pool).

Turn on the pump with the filter in the recirculate or whirlpool setting. (Don't set on "filter" setting until after you have backwashed sand first.)






Now you can begin to inspect for leaks and tighten connections as needed. This topic is covered in our next blog entry.