Friday, May 27, 2011

Trouble-shooting Air Leaks in Filter System

What is an Air Leak?
An "Air Leak" is any point where air (a little or a lot) can get into the suction side of the filtration system.

If any of these symptoms are occurring, chances are that you have an air leak. This situation, while seemingly confusing and difficult, is actually really easy to eliminate.

One important thing to remember with an air leak is the you can have a leak without having water leak out.

Air leaks occur when the pump is turned on and for whatever reason air is pulled (sucked) into the system.

One way is from a small crack or hole from the pump motor seal to anywhere back to the water level of the pool.

Another way is any interrruption in the flow of water to the pump that causes the pump to lose its prime. (For example: not having all the air out of the vacuum hose or connecting the vacuum hose to the skimmer too slowly or with the pump on. More explanation to come.)

Why is it a problem?
Large air leaks can greatly reduce the suction from the pump. No suction means vacuuming the pool is nearly impossible. Automatic pool cleaners will start briefly, only to top and just sit at the bottom of the pool. Extremely frustrating...if you don't know how to solve the problem.

Here is a list of what check for a leak.

Our suggestion is to check the most common causes first.

If those don't solve the problem, then procede to the less common causes.

The most common examples of air leaks:
Most common cause: not enough water in the pool or missing skimmer weir. If you see a small whirlpool in the skimmer, then this is most likely where the air is coming from.


Second most common cause: you have just emptied the pump basket and forgot to completely tighten the clear lid on the pump. Having trouble getting the unscrewing the lid on the pump? See "How to avoid an air lock".

Third most common cause: while attaching the vacuum hose to the pool, too much air gets in. Try attaching the vacuum hose to the vacuum plate adaptor WITH THE PUMP MOTOR OFF. You can take your time and attach it properly. With the motor on, you must be very fast while making the connections. For a visual example,  Check out PoolCo's Video "How to Attach Your Vacuum"

Other possible solutions:
Check the hose connection from the bottom of the skimmer and the hose connection from the front of the pump. The hose clamps must be extremely tight. A small sliver of duct tape, the width and length of your pinky finger, wrapped around the fitting before you slip on the hose, is often helpful to create a complete seal.

Consider replacing this hose if it is over 2 years old. The sun is really hard on anything that is exposed to it day after long hot day. A small pinhole can develop that will be undetectable, even upon close inspection.

Check the orings on the clear lid above the basket and the pump plug(s). Are there any fine cracks the air could seep into? If they look worn or are several years old, they should be replaced.
Definitely lubricate the oring with a silicome based grease. Don't use vasoline.

Check the bottom of the skimmer for hair-line cracks.

Check the bottom of the pump lint body (holds the basket) for hair-line cracks.

Replace the pump seal.


If you aren't getting good circulation, it may not be an air leak, but an obstruction that isn't allowing the water to flow back to the pool at the proper rate.

Possible obstructions that can greatly reduce flow:

Pump and/or  skimmer baskets are full of leaves, bugs, pine needles, etc. Empty them.

Pool filter needs to backwashed, chemically cleaned or replaced.

Pump impellor is jammed with pine needles or small twigs that can slide through holes in the baskets. Unplug the pump and remove these.

Pool hose from the skimmer to the pump has collapsed and is sucked shut. Replace it.

Automatic or manual vacuum has a rock, sweet gum ball, twig blocking the opening at the vacuum head.

A solar heater can slow your flow down. ( a lot of tubing for the water to flow through).

A pool fountain can slightly slow your flow down.











Phosphates, Real or Phantasy?

The following Blog Post is a direct copy of the BioGuard Technical Information Bulletin "Phosphates, Algae & Chlorine Demand - What is the Relationship?"

The information contained in this publication is based on data currently available to BioLab and is thought to be correct. Since BioLab has no control over the use of this information by others, BioLab does not guarantee the same results described herein will be obtained and makes no warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose or any expressed or implied warranty. This information is intended for use by technically trained personnel at their discretion.


Occasionally, we are asked why we don't recommend adding Phosphate Remover products to pool water. To help explain our reasoning, we have added the following BioGuard technical bulletin to our Blog. The article gets a little technical, but the overall reason is that "there are currently no phosphate remover products that are EPA registered as algae killers (algicides) or algae inhibitors (algistats), therefore none of these products can make that claim. The reason is that no supporting data exists."

It is our belief that these products are a waste of your hard earned money. Keep reading to find out how they work and that Poolco already stocks the products that will help solve your chlorine demand problems.

So read on....

Phosphates, Algae & Chlorine Demand – What is the Relationship?

The Scientific Answer to Phosphates
So what exactly are phosphates?  In general, the compound that is referred to as “phosphate” is orthophosphate.  It is simply a phosphorous atom surrounded by four oxygen atoms, PO4-3.  It can exist as it is written (an ionic species dissolved in solution) or it can be attached to another molecule such as a protein.  Phosphates come from a variety of different sources.  These include fertilizer, industrial discharge, swimmer waste, detergents and chemicals used to treat corrosion in drinking water – just to name a few.    Phosphorous is actually the eleventh-most abundant mineral in the earth’s crust.  So basically, it’s everywhere in many different forms.  It is an essential nutrient for all life – both plant and animal.   

So the question becomes “Does orthophosphate contribute to chlorine demand?”  The answer to this question is no.  In lab studies, we have not been able to increase chlorine demand by adding additional phosphate to water samples.  

You may remember that all atoms have what is referred to as a preferred oxidation state.  This is simply a number that is assigned to a particular atom based on its chemical properties.  For example, the preferred oxidation number for chlorine is -1.  The preferred oxidation number for phosphorous is +5.  Atoms in an oxidation state that is not preferred are very reactive, while atoms in their preferred oxidation state are stable and are much less reactive. 

In hypochlorous acid (HOCl), chlorine is in an oxidation state of +1.  Because chlorine is constantly trying to reach its preferred state of -1, it is very reactive.  This is why hypochlorous acid is such a great oxidizer.  When hypochlorous acid oxidizes other material, the chlorine atom reaches its preferred oxidation state of -1. 

In the orthophosphate molecule, the phosphorous atom is already in its most preferred oxidation state of +5.  Therefore orthophosphate is not likely to participate in these types of chemical reactions with hypochlorous acid.  If material does not react with hypochlorous acid then it does not contribute to chlorine demand.  This theory has proven true in lab testing as mentioned above. 

So if orthophosphate does not contribute to chlorine demand, does it contribute to algae growth?  The answer to this question is simple.  In a properly maintained pool environment (which includes the recommended level of sanitizer) phosphate does not play a role in the growth of algae. 

All plants, including algae, require several essential nutrients for growth.  These include hydrogen, oxygen, carbon, nitrogen and phosphorous.  The addition of these nutrients to an environment such as a lake or pond may increase algae growth and disrupt the balance of the ecosystem.  The EPA puts limits for discharge of nutrient containing water into lakes and streams so as not to upset this balance.  However, a pool environment is completely different so the same limits do not apply.  A pool environment includes filtration as well as the use of sanitizers and algicides which would be toxic to aquatic life.

There are some opinions that using a phosphate remover will stop or at least inhibit algae growth in pool water as well as assist with chlorine demand treatment.  There are currently no phosphate remover products that are EPA registered as algae killers (algicides) or algae inhibitors (algistats), therefore none of these products can make that claim.  The reason is that no supporting data exists.  It is also important to note that phosphate removers only remove orthophosphate and not all sources of phosphorous (such as phosphonates, polyphosphates and phospholipids, etc.).

Phosphate removers may act as a floccing agent to remove other material from the water.  Physically removing some contaminants is always an option for assisting with chlorine demand treatment and can be achieved with any number of floc-based products.  Using a product designed specifically for this function will deliver better results.

But would the removal of orthophosphate assist with algae treatment? 
The answer is NO.  There are several reasons for this. 

1.   It was stated earlier that phosphorous is essential for all life forms both plant and animal.  Orthophosphate is a readily available source of phosphorous for plants, including algae.  However, it is not the only source of phosphorous.  If orthophosphate becomes unavailable as a source of phosphorous, then the algae will simply find it from another source.  Remember that these products only remove orthophosphate and not all phosphorous containing compounds.  Additionally, phosphate removers cannot remove phosphate levels down to zero.  There is evidence to suggest that some types of algae will in fact take up extra phosphorous and store it so that it can be used when there is a lack of it in their environment.1 Even if you were able to achieve a zero phosphorous level in the pool, these types of algae would still grow using the phosphorous stored within the cell.  With these types of algae, removing phosphate does nothing to stop growth.

2.   Phosphate removers do not hold a residual in the pool.  So while some orthophosphate may be removed upon initial application, it will not be removed on a constant basis.  And because phosphorous is so abundant, there will be a constant influx of phosphate.  Phosphate will be introduced not only from the environment (remember – it’s the 11th most abundant mineral) but from bathers as well – it is a major component of proteins and will be present in skin, urine, sweat, etc.  In fact, the tap water at the Technology Center has 1,500ppb (1.5ppm) phosphate and yet the test pools run successfully with no algae blooms on a regular basis.

3.   And finally, the most important consideration is the presence of sanitizer or even better – sanitizer and algicide.  Proper maintenance is the key to keeping algae growth in check. BioLab has conducted several studies to explore the phosphate issue.  The studies used both lab cultured algae as well as algae obtained from the field.  In these highly controlled, nutrient rich environments, algae did not grow in the presence of 1-2ppm chlorine.  This was proven in multiple studies with varying phosphate levels up to 30,000ppb (30ppm).  Furthermore, the use of a maintenance algicide enhanced water quality with increased clarity.   

There has been much discussion regarding phosphates over the past several years.  The fact is that phosphates are not “new” – they have always been present and are not more prevalent today than in the past.  Keep in mind that consumers add phosphate based products for metal treatment on a routine basis.  Some of these products include BioGuard® Pool Magnet Plus®, BioGuard Scale Inhibitor, GLB Super Sequa-Sol®, Jack’s Magic® The Purple Stuff™, Jack’s Magic The Blue Stuff™, Jack’s Magic The Pink Stuff™, ProTeam® Metal Magic, HTH® Stain and Scale, and Sparkle Conquest (this list is not meant to be comprehensive).  Metal treatments with these products are performed with no chlorine demand or algae growth as a result. 

Phosphates are and always will be a part of the environment.  The best route to take is proper pool maintenance with products designed to kill and/or inhibit the growth of bacteria and algae.
1Griffith, Beeton, Spencer, Mitchell; Environmental Phosphorous Handbook, copyright 1973.


BioGuard Technical Information Bulletin

The information contained in this publication is based on data currently available to BioLab and is thought to be correct. Since BioLab has no control over the use of this information by others, BioLab does not guarantee the same results described herein will be obtained and makes no warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose or any expressed or implied warranty. This information is intended for use by technically trained personnel at their discretion.



 

Thursday, May 26, 2011

How to Clear (and Prevent) Cloudy Swimming Pool Water

Cloudy Swimming Pool Water - The Common Causes

Number One Reason?  Lack of chlorine or SoftSwim "C" Clarifier.

You absolutely must maintain a chlorine or SoftSwim "C" level in your pool 100% of the time.

* If the pool goes without chlorine (or "C") for a 12 - 24 hours, your
pool water may experience SLIGHT cloudiness.

Usually a double shock treatment will be enough treatment to fix the problem and then leave enough residual chemical to protect the pool water from new threats.

* If the pool goes without chlorine /SoftSwim "C" for ALL of April and May with a winter cover still on the pool, you will experience ALL sorts of problems (and expense).

A double shock treatment will NOT be enough.



How Much Is Enough?
SoftSwim "C" Test Strips (square on the right)
The top strip has a great "C" level - dark purple.
The bottom strip has a zero "C" level - pink, no color change.

How then do you know if you have added the correct amount of sanitizing chemicals to kill the bacteria and algae in your pool water?

The only way to know is to test your pool water frequently!

Test daily early in the spring (or if you are new to pool ownership). Once you are confident you are maintaining a good chlorine / SoftSwim "C" level, then testing once a week should be sufficient.



Chorine Test Strips (square 2nd from the left)
Top strip, a great chlorine level of at least 5 ppm - dark purple.
Bottom strip, 0 chlorine level - yellow, no color change.
Testing after a heavy rain or heavy use (like a pool party) is also a good idea to detect a decline in sanitizing levels.

Test at home with test strips. "OTO" yellow drop kits are not preferred to test for free and available chlorine residuals. Bring a sample to PoolCo for complete testing at least 3 times a year: when you open the pool, after the 4th of July and before you winterize your pool.

Don't let chlorine or SoftSwim levels fall to low levels. 



"Tug of War"

Your pool is essentially in a "tug of war" of pool water vs. nature (algae/bacteria, etc.).  Pool chemical levels create a "barricade" to keep the "enemy" out.

Low levels are easily and quickly "knocked" down by bacteria and algae.

Your best defense against new invading algae and bacteria is to maintain chlorine and SoftSwim levels at the upper end of the safe and proper chemical ranges.


Why you should look at the pool every day.  

Does it look brilliant and sparkling? Or does it seem dull?

Why? Algae is either the beginning or
ending of a cloudy water problem.




Live algae is in the swimming pool pool starts as dull, hazy pool water. Because algae multiplies extremely rapidly, the pool will then go from cloudy to green ("mysteriously") overnight. If you are looking at the pool daily you can see this happening before is becomes a huge, expensive problem. Verify by testing the water and you will discover there is NO chlorine or SoftSwim "C". Immediately add a double dose of shock treatment and bring a sample PoolCo to have the water analyzed and receive further instruction.

Dead algae is still in the swimming pool pool. Okay, now you have a great chlorine or SoftSwim "C" residual on your test strip - but the pool is still really cloudy blue, gray or yellow. Dead algae are quite difficult to remove, especially with sand or cartridge filters. Special instructions are needed to quickly turn this situation around. Otherwise your pool water may remain cloudy all summer.


Other Causes - Some Common, Some Not So Common:

Rarely is cloudy water caused by just ONE issue. Normally it's a combination of things happening or not happening.

Filtration System:
Pool pump not running long enough. It must run a minimum of 10 - 12 hours a day.

Air leak from the suction side of your filtration system.

Low pool water level allowing pool skimmer to suck air.

Dirty Filtration System. Change sand yearly in non-chlorine (Softswim, Baquacil, etc) pools. Chemically clean every 4-6 weeks with StripKwik or Softswim Filter Cleaner.

Pool needs to be backwashed. However, backwash filter only when necessary (when pressure increases on pressure guage and circulation of the water has slowed).

Swimming pool pump strainer basket extremely full of bugs, leaves, pine needles, etc.

Pump impeller all stopped up with leaves, pine needles, etc.

Filter solidified with calcium or other minerals.

Cartridge swimming pool filter cartridge needs to be replaced. The filters lose their effectiveness each year. If the "pleats" have collapsed the filter is useless. If the filter has not regularly and consistently been chemically cleaned it will be clogged and is useless.

Multiport swimming pool valve gasket damaged.

Incorrect sand used instead of swimming pool filter sand.

Pool Chemicals:

High pH or Total Alkalinity.

Calcium hypochlorite pool shock or chlorinating powder used incorrectly. 

High calcium in swimming pool fill water.

Adding chlorine to a Baquacil or Softswim or other off brand of non-chlorine pool.

Adding copper algaecide to Baquacil or Soft Swim or other off brand of non-chlorine pool.

Overdose of swimming pool clarifier. (A little goes a long way.)

Overdose of stabilizer WAY too high ( > 200 ppm).

Use of copper ionizers or liquids, without sufficient shocking.

Repeated use of (cheap, gallon sized) "foamy algaecides" to "prevent" pool algae.

Other Factors:
"High Bather Load" - a lot of people in the pool and/or for a extend period of time. The smaller the pool the more likely cloudy water will happen 2 - 24 hours later.

Too much "Swimmer Waste" - too much sweat or (yuck) urine in the pool.

Excessive tree pollen in pool.

Dust blown into pool.

Pool vandalized with soap, detergent, motor oil, etc.

Large "Wedding Cake" style in-pool steps used in SoftSwim or Bacquacil pools.

Not brushing pool walls weekly to remove biofilm.

Want more?
Here's a link to THE best list of causes you'll find ANYWHERE on the internet:
Par Pools (BioGuard Dealer located in Connecticut) Cloudy Water List

Monday, May 2, 2011

Spring 2011 Pool School Photo Album

Getting ready for pool school to start.








Here' how to remove the rain water, leaves, etc
from the top of the pool. You DON'T want that
mucky stuff to fall into the clean pool water.

Staff listens in. Mark directs off stage.  (Mary can
talk about pool care for hours! However, we only
have an 60 to 90 minutes for our presentation.)

Use the correct type of sand in your filter.
Replace all filter hose connections.

Connect from the bottom of the skimmer to the
front of your pool pump....

Plug in your pump for just 20 - 30 seconds,
(before you connect it) to listen to how it sounds.

Attach your pool light to the low voltage
transformer like this.

Remove the winterizing skimmer plate.

Once you have all your filter system connections
made, then bring the water level up to the proper
level. 

Did you lose a lot of pool water over the winter?
While it may appear as though you have a leak, it
is more likely that you had water displacement.
This was caused by excessive rain and
ice/snow collecting on top the winter cover. That
water on top of the cover pushes the water
underneath out of the pool.

Backwash before you start filtering.

Remember to turn off power to the pump
before you change valve positions.


If you  open your pool mid April to mid May,
the water quality should be clear. If you open late
in May, you WILL need significantly higher
chemical dosages to kill the bacteria and water
molds that have been growing for weeks under the
winter cover! (Remember bacteria is invisible
because it's microscopic. So the water may appear
clear..)

Do you need to vacuum the bottom of the pool?

Here's how your sand filter works. Don't ever vacuum on
"Backwash".
Once the cover comes off, pool chemicals must
go in as soon as possible! Here's when and how
to add your 3 Step BioGuard program.



BioGuard saves time and money. Easy 3 step
programs A-B-C or 1-2-3 just test and add once a
week. Free computerized water analysis to assure
you that your pool water is properly sanitized and
balanced.

PoolCo pool experts Kasey and Sonnia are here
to answer your questions and help you solve your
most difficult pool challenges.