Don't Wait Too Late to Prepare Your Pool for Summer Fun

Winterizing chemicals only last through the winter! 

As temperatures rise in the spring, the water under the pool cover begins to heat up. Even though the pool is not exposed to the sun, the warm water under the cover begins to encourage the growth of bacteria, water molds and algae. Very quickly, any traces of sanitizing chemicals left in the water disappear as they react with the growing organisms. This leaves the pool water unprotected. This has now become the perfect environment for bacteria, water molds and algae to grow and multiply very rapidly.

Problems always cost more than prevention!

Some pool owners think they are saving money by waiting until the end of May or early June to uncover and begin operating their pool for summer. This couldn't be further from the truth.

Consider the following, CHEMICALLY, you would need:

For a really green 10,000 gallon pool, you would need, on the average at least 10 lbs (usually much more) of a superchlorinating product, a bottle of flocculant, a bottle of stronger-more costly algaecide to fix the problem.

For the same sized pool, opened 4 weeks earlier, you would need on the average 1lbs of superchlorinating product per week, 2-3 Smart Sticks per week, 3 ounces of algaecide per week.

Not factored into the first scenario above...YOUR TIME and TROUBLE!

BELOW: Steps to open your above ground pool: (For a personal prescription and friendly advice, bring us a water sample! We will tailor your opening to your needs.)

Plan to attend Pool School at POOLCO!

Clean the cover with BioGuard StowAway (or it WILL SMELL really, really bad next fall when you need to winterize your pool!) Do yourself a favor and dispose of any cover that has developed pinholes from the cover fabric pulling apart (or you will be pumping pool water from under the cover next spring when you open the pool....)

Tighten all hose connections -  SUPER TIGHT! 

Tighten connections

The manufacture of flexible filter system connection hose recommends changing these annually. 

Biofilms develop inside the hoses that will require additional chemical treatment. 

In addition to this, the sun is very harsh and drying on the plastic. The bend in the hose can crack and then leak (and unwanted "fountain"...)

Remove skimmer plate.

How high is the water level? If there is enough water added to the pool - and the water is clear (you can easily see the bottom) - then beginning running the filter system.

Immediately test and chemically treat the pool water.  Winterizing chemicals are often used up by end of April, sometimes sooner, if winter and spring temperatures were above average.

Bring a sample of water (16 ounce) to POOLCO for a complete water analysis. We will make opening dosage recommendations and customize your instructions based on your pool's needs, your budget and your time!

Run the filter 24 hours a day for several days until the water clarity and chemical balance are perfect! Then you may reduce filter time to 8 - 12 hours per day (with the use of a timer - or you WILL forget to run filter!)

** If there is a layer of fine dirt (or worse) on the bottom of the pool you must remove this from the pool. Come see us with a water sample for how to best handle this situation.

Our friendly advice is always free!

How to Clear (and Prevent) Cloudy Swimming Pool Water

Cloudy Swimming Pool Water - The Common Causes

Number One Reason?  Lack of chlorine or SoftSwim "C" Clarifier.

You absolutely must maintain a chlorine or SoftSwim "C" level in your pool 100% of the time.

* If the pool goes without chlorine (or "C") for a 12 - 24 hours, your
pool water may experience SLIGHT cloudiness.

Usually a double shock treatment will be enough treatment to fix the problem and then leave enough residual chemical to protect the pool water from new threats.

* If the pool goes without chlorine /SoftSwim "C" for ALL of April and May with a winter cover still on the pool, you will experience ALL sorts of problems (and expense).

A double shock treatment will NOT be enough.



How Much Is Enough?

SoftSwim "C" Test Strips (square on the right)
The top strip has a great "C" level - dark purple.
The bottom strip has a zero "C" level - pink, no color change.

How then do you know if you have added the correct amount of sanitizing chemicals to kill the bacteria and algae in your pool water?

The only way to know is to test your pool water frequently!

Test daily early in the spring (or if you are new to pool ownership). Once you are confident you are maintaining a good chlorine / SoftSwim "C" level, then testing once a week should be sufficient.

Chorine Test Strips (square 2nd from the left)
Top strip, a great chlorine level of at least 5 ppm - dark purple.
Bottom strip, 0 chlorine level - yellow, no color change.

Testing after a heavy rain or heavy use (like a pool party) is also a good idea to detect a decline in sanitizing levels.

Test at home with test strips. "OTO" yellow drop kits are not preferred to test for free and available chlorine residuals. Bring a sample to PoolCo for complete testing at least 3 times a year: when you open the pool, after the 4th of July and before you winterize your pool.

Don't let chlorine or SoftSwim levels fall to low levels. 



"Tug of War"

Your pool is essentially in a "tug of war" of pool water vs. nature (algae/bacteria, etc.).  Pool chemical levels create a "barricade" to keep the "enemy" out.

Low levels are easily and quickly "knocked" down by bacteria and algae.

Your best defense against new invading algae and bacteria is to maintain chlorine and SoftSwim levels at the upper end of the safe and proper chemical ranges.


Why you should look at the pool every day.  

Does it look brilliant and sparkling? Or does it seem dull?

Why? Algae is either the beginning or
ending of a cloudy water problem.

Live algae is in the swimming pool pool starts as dull, hazy pool water. Because algae multiplies extremely rapidly, the pool will then go from cloudy to green ("mysteriously") overnight. If you are looking at the pool daily you can see this happening before is becomes a huge, expensive problem. Verify by testing the water and you will discover there is NO chlorine or SoftSwim "C". Immediately add a double dose of shock treatment and bring a sample PoolCo to have the water analyzed and receive further instruction.

Dead algae is still in the swimming pool pool. Okay, now you have a great chlorine or SoftSwim "C" residual on your test strip - but the pool is still really cloudy blue, gray or yellow. Dead algae are quite difficult to remove, especially with sand or cartridge filters. Special instructions are needed to quickly turn this situation around. Otherwise your pool water may remain cloudy all summer.


Other Causes - Some Common, Some Not So Common:

Rarely is cloudy water caused by just ONE issue. Normally it's a combination of things happening or not happening.

Filtration System:
Pool pump not running long enough. It must run a minimum of 10 - 12 hours a day.

Air leak from the suction side of your filtration system.

Low pool water level allowing pool skimmer to suck air.

Dirty Filtration System. Change sand yearly in non-chlorine (Softswim, Baquacil, etc) pools. Chemically clean every 4-6 weeks with StripKwik or Softswim Filter Cleaner.

Pool needs to be backwashed. However, backwash filter only when necessary (when pressure increases on pressure guage and circulation of the water has slowed).

Swimming pool pump strainer basket extremely full of bugs, leaves, pine needles, etc.

Pump impeller all stopped up with leaves, pine needles, etc.

Filter solidified with calcium or other minerals.

Cartridge swimming pool filter cartridge needs to be replaced. The filters lose their effectiveness each year. If the "pleats" have collapsed the filter is useless. If the filter has not regularly and consistently been chemically cleaned it will be clogged and is useless.

Multiport swimming pool valve gasket damaged.

Incorrect sand used instead of swimming pool filter sand.

Pool Chemicals:

High pH or Total Alkalinity.

Calcium hypochlorite pool shock or chlorinating powder used incorrectly. 

High calcium in swimming pool fill water.

Adding chlorine to a Baquacil or Softswim or other off brand of non-chlorine pool.

Adding copper algaecide to Baquacil or Soft Swim or other off brand of non-chlorine pool.

Overdose of swimming pool clarifier. (A little goes a long way.)

Overdose of stabilizer WAY too high ( > 200 ppm).

Use of copper ionizers or liquids, without sufficient shocking.

Repeated use of (cheap, gallon sized) "foamy algaecides" to "prevent" pool algae.

Other Factors:
"High Bather Load" - a lot of people in the pool and/or for a extend period of time. The smaller the pool the more likely cloudy water will happen 2 - 24 hours later.

Too much "Swimmer Waste" - too much sweat or (yuck) urine in the pool.

Excessive tree pollen in pool.

Dust blown into pool.

Pool vandalized with soap, detergent, motor oil, etc.

Large "Wedding Cake" style in-pool steps used in SoftSwim or Bacquacil pools.

Not brushing pool walls weekly to remove biofilm.

Want more?
Here's a link to THE best list of causes you'll find ANYWHERE on the internet:
Par Pools (BioGuard Dealer located in Connecticut) Cloudy Water List

Biofilms and How to Treat Them

ASK THE POOL AND SPA EXPERT

QUESTION: What are biofilms and how do I treat them?

ANSWER:

A biofilm is a collection of microorganisms living together on a wet surface.  It can be described as a home for bacteria, fungi, algae and protozoa.  In a spa environment, a biofilm at the waterline is the perfect place for bacteria to grow protected from the sanitizer.  The biofilm will grow and spread as the microorganisms reproduce.  To remove it, clean spa surfaces thoroughly each time the spa is drained.  Frequently wipe the waterline (as much as every other day in heavy-use spas) in order to prevent the formation of new biofilms.  Be sure to use a cleaner that is specifically designed for spa use.   Never use household cleaners as damage to the spas surface may occur. 

As with any chemical program, proper maintenance is the key.  Always maintain an appropriate sanitizer residual to kill any new bacteria that may be introduced to the spa.  Shock the water weekly (or more often for heavy-use spas) to keep the water free of contaminants that can cause cloudy water and contribute to the buildup of scum line.  Always maintain proper water balance as the sanitizer will work better in properly balanced water.  Good water balance also helps protect spa surfaces and equipment from corrosion. 

For more information, bring a water sample to PoolCo, your BioGuard® dealer, for testing.  We can help you choose the right cleaning and maintenance products that will get you back to enjoying your spa worry-free. 

SPA-Article #2 Preventing Foaming/Cloudy Water in Your Hot Tub

Just how can you prevent foaming in your hot tub?

Spa & Hot Tub odors, excessive foaming  and/or cloudiness problems are caused by:

• Improper sanitizer use

• Improper water balance

• Lack of regular maintenance
• Insufficient drain & refill procedures
• Environmental reasons caused by uncontrolled biofilm build up



Normal foaming while using hot tub after

you turn off the jet pumps, the foam should

disappear within 30 to 60 seconds.

The water should

look crystal clear.



Don’t try fixing the problem with just anti-foam. Certainly don't try to cover up odors with fragrances. You will only make the situation worse. Deal with the root causes listed above.

Bring us a sample of your hot tub water. 

This is not normal. A tablespoon of sanitizer will not this problem. PoolCo's trained BioGuard water professionals are here to rescue you and your hot tub illness....as quickly as possible.

The simplest, easiest way to keep your hot tub water clean and crystal clear is to have your water tested professionally at PoolCo Carbondale. You can have your water tested at most Pool and Spa retailers.  We are different. This service is free!