PoolCo Pool Care Video (1998) Part 1

New to pool ownership?

Perhaps you will appreciate and enjoy PoolCo's
"How To Care for Your PoolCo Pool" Video.

Over 14 years ago, we included this video with any new pool purchased at PoolCo. (Proof, yet again, of how dedicated to customer service we were and are.)With the wide spread use of high speed internet, we are able to now share this video on our blog.

Please now enjoy Part 1: How Operate Your Filtration System.

Produced by us in 1998, we are in the process of updating product images.

However, you should find our 14 year old video to be quite helpful in understanding how to operate your filter system, to properly add pool chemicals, routine maintenance, etc.

Trouble-shooting Air Leaks in Filter System

What is an Air Leak?

An "Air Leak" is any point where air (a little or a lot) can get into the suction side of the filtration system.

If any of these symptoms are occurring, chances are that you have an air leak. This situation, while seemingly confusing and difficult, is actually really easy to eliminate.

One important thing to remember with an air leak is the you can have a leak without having water leak out.

Air leaks occur when the pump is turned on and for whatever reason air is pulled (sucked) into the system.

One way is from a small crack or hole from the pump motor seal to anywhere back to the water level of the pool.

Another way is any interrruption in the flow of water to the pump that causes the pump to lose its prime. (For example: not having all the air out of the vacuum hose or connecting the vacuum hose to the skimmer too slowly or with the pump on. More explanation to come.)

Why is it a problem?

Large air leaks can greatly reduce the suction from the pump. No suction means vacuuming the pool is nearly impossible. Automatic pool cleaners will start briefly, only to top and just sit at the bottom of the pool. Extremely frustrating...if you don't know how to solve the problem.

Here is a list of what check for a leak.

Our suggestion is to check the most common causes first.

If those don't solve the problem, then procede to the less common causes.

The most common examples of air leaks:

Most common cause: not enough water in the pool or missing skimmer weir. If you see a small whirlpool in the skimmer, then this is most likely where the air is coming from.

Second most common cause: you have just emptied the pump basket and forgot to completely tighten the clear lid on the pump. Having trouble getting the unscrewing the lid on the pump? See "How to avoid an air lock".

Third most common cause: while attaching the vacuum hose to the pool, too much air gets in. Try attaching the vacuum hose to the vacuum plate adaptor WITH THE PUMP MOTOR OFF. You can take your time and attach it properly. With the motor on, you must be very fast while making the connections. For a visual example,  Check out PoolCo's Video "How to Attach Your Vacuum"

Other possible solutions:

Check the hose connection from the bottom of the skimmer and the hose connection from the front of the pump. The hose clamps must be extremely tight. A small sliver of duct tape, the width and length of your pinky finger, wrapped around the fitting before you slip on the hose, is often helpful to create a complete seal.

Consider replacing this hose if it is over 2 years old. The sun is really hard on anything that is exposed to it day after long hot day. A small pinhole can develop that will be undetectable, even upon close inspection.

Check the orings on the clear lid above the basket and the pump plug(s). Are there any fine cracks the air could seep into? If they look worn or are several years old, they should be replaced.

Definitely lubricate the oring with a silicome based grease. Don't use vasoline.

Check the bottom of the skimmer for hair-line cracks.

Check the bottom of the pump lint body (holds the basket) for hair-line cracks.

Replace the pump seal.

If you aren't getting good circulation, it may not be an air leak, but an obstruction that isn't allowing the water to flow back to the pool at the proper rate.

Possible obstructions that can greatly reduce flow:

Pump and/or  skimmer baskets are full of leaves, bugs, pine needles, etc. Empty them.

Pool filter needs to backwashed, chemically cleaned or replaced.

Pump impellor is jammed with pine needles or small twigs that can slide through holes in the baskets. Unplug the pump and remove these.

Pool hose from the skimmer to the pump has collapsed and is sucked shut. Replace it.

Automatic or manual vacuum has a rock, sweet gum ball, twig blocking the opening at the vacuum head.

A solar heater can slow your flow down. ( a lot of tubing for the water to flow through).

A pool fountain can slightly slow your flow down.

How to Clear (and Prevent) Cloudy Swimming Pool Water

Cloudy Swimming Pool Water - The Common Causes

Number One Reason?  Lack of chlorine or SoftSwim "C" Clarifier.

You absolutely must maintain a chlorine or SoftSwim "C" level in your pool 100% of the time.

* If the pool goes without chlorine (or "C") for a 12 - 24 hours, your
pool water may experience SLIGHT cloudiness.

Usually a double shock treatment will be enough treatment to fix the problem and then leave enough residual chemical to protect the pool water from new threats.

* If the pool goes without chlorine /SoftSwim "C" for ALL of April and May with a winter cover still on the pool, you will experience ALL sorts of problems (and expense).

A double shock treatment will NOT be enough.



How Much Is Enough?

SoftSwim "C" Test Strips (square on the right)
The top strip has a great "C" level - dark purple.
The bottom strip has a zero "C" level - pink, no color change.

How then do you know if you have added the correct amount of sanitizing chemicals to kill the bacteria and algae in your pool water?

The only way to know is to test your pool water frequently!

Test daily early in the spring (or if you are new to pool ownership). Once you are confident you are maintaining a good chlorine / SoftSwim "C" level, then testing once a week should be sufficient.

Chorine Test Strips (square 2nd from the left)
Top strip, a great chlorine level of at least 5 ppm - dark purple.
Bottom strip, 0 chlorine level - yellow, no color change.

Testing after a heavy rain or heavy use (like a pool party) is also a good idea to detect a decline in sanitizing levels.

Test at home with test strips. "OTO" yellow drop kits are not preferred to test for free and available chlorine residuals. Bring a sample to PoolCo for complete testing at least 3 times a year: when you open the pool, after the 4th of July and before you winterize your pool.

Don't let chlorine or SoftSwim levels fall to low levels. 



"Tug of War"

Your pool is essentially in a "tug of war" of pool water vs. nature (algae/bacteria, etc.).  Pool chemical levels create a "barricade" to keep the "enemy" out.

Low levels are easily and quickly "knocked" down by bacteria and algae.

Your best defense against new invading algae and bacteria is to maintain chlorine and SoftSwim levels at the upper end of the safe and proper chemical ranges.


Why you should look at the pool every day.  

Does it look brilliant and sparkling? Or does it seem dull?

Why? Algae is either the beginning or
ending of a cloudy water problem.

Live algae is in the swimming pool pool starts as dull, hazy pool water. Because algae multiplies extremely rapidly, the pool will then go from cloudy to green ("mysteriously") overnight. If you are looking at the pool daily you can see this happening before is becomes a huge, expensive problem. Verify by testing the water and you will discover there is NO chlorine or SoftSwim "C". Immediately add a double dose of shock treatment and bring a sample PoolCo to have the water analyzed and receive further instruction.

Dead algae is still in the swimming pool pool. Okay, now you have a great chlorine or SoftSwim "C" residual on your test strip - but the pool is still really cloudy blue, gray or yellow. Dead algae are quite difficult to remove, especially with sand or cartridge filters. Special instructions are needed to quickly turn this situation around. Otherwise your pool water may remain cloudy all summer.


Other Causes - Some Common, Some Not So Common:

Rarely is cloudy water caused by just ONE issue. Normally it's a combination of things happening or not happening.

Filtration System:
Pool pump not running long enough. It must run a minimum of 10 - 12 hours a day.

Air leak from the suction side of your filtration system.

Low pool water level allowing pool skimmer to suck air.

Dirty Filtration System. Change sand yearly in non-chlorine (Softswim, Baquacil, etc) pools. Chemically clean every 4-6 weeks with StripKwik or Softswim Filter Cleaner.

Pool needs to be backwashed. However, backwash filter only when necessary (when pressure increases on pressure guage and circulation of the water has slowed).

Swimming pool pump strainer basket extremely full of bugs, leaves, pine needles, etc.

Pump impeller all stopped up with leaves, pine needles, etc.

Filter solidified with calcium or other minerals.

Cartridge swimming pool filter cartridge needs to be replaced. The filters lose their effectiveness each year. If the "pleats" have collapsed the filter is useless. If the filter has not regularly and consistently been chemically cleaned it will be clogged and is useless.

Multiport swimming pool valve gasket damaged.

Incorrect sand used instead of swimming pool filter sand.

Pool Chemicals:

High pH or Total Alkalinity.

Calcium hypochlorite pool shock or chlorinating powder used incorrectly. 

High calcium in swimming pool fill water.

Adding chlorine to a Baquacil or Softswim or other off brand of non-chlorine pool.

Adding copper algaecide to Baquacil or Soft Swim or other off brand of non-chlorine pool.

Overdose of swimming pool clarifier. (A little goes a long way.)

Overdose of stabilizer WAY too high ( > 200 ppm).

Use of copper ionizers or liquids, without sufficient shocking.

Repeated use of (cheap, gallon sized) "foamy algaecides" to "prevent" pool algae.

Other Factors:
"High Bather Load" - a lot of people in the pool and/or for a extend period of time. The smaller the pool the more likely cloudy water will happen 2 - 24 hours later.

Too much "Swimmer Waste" - too much sweat or (yuck) urine in the pool.

Excessive tree pollen in pool.

Dust blown into pool.

Pool vandalized with soap, detergent, motor oil, etc.

Large "Wedding Cake" style in-pool steps used in SoftSwim or Bacquacil pools.

Not brushing pool walls weekly to remove biofilm.

Want more?
Here's a link to THE best list of causes you'll find ANYWHERE on the internet:
Par Pools (BioGuard Dealer located in Connecticut) Cloudy Water List

STEP 3: How to Open Your Pool - How to Attach Your Pump and Filter System to Your Above Ground Pool

 Attaching your pump and filter system to pool is simple if you follow these step by step instructions:

• Pool hoses (2) 3' to 6' in length*
• Pump to filter hose (1) - this is made from a different material than the Pool hoses
• Metal clamps
• Screwdriver
• Teflon plumbers tape

Set the pool pump and filter system by your pump's power source and close enough to the pool skimmer for your hoses* to reach and connect them together.

This should be on a flat dry surface, preferably on paving stones or patio blocks.

Attach the first hose to the bottom of the pool skimmer outlet by sliding it over the outlet spout and securing it with a metal clamp holding it in place.

Now, attach the other end of this hose to the inlet on the pool pump with another metal clamp in the same manner. Pull on both connections with your hands to make sure they are tight.

Attach the next hose to the pump outlet and to the filter inlet as per manufacturer's instructions.

This hose is usually shorter and fatter than the other two hoses connected to the pools skimmer and inlet and will install according to manufacturer's directions. Make sure these connections are tight.

Flexible PVC (pictured here) is an excellent choice for this connection. Visit Poolco for the easiest way to attach this type of hose to your filter system. (We keep plenty of Flex PVC in stock.)

Attach the second pool hose to the filter outlet by again sliding the end of the hose over the spout and securing it with another metal clamp.

Slide the other end of this hose over the pool inlet spout on the side of your pool and secure it with the metal clamps.

Fill the pool about one inch from the top of the skimmer opening (inside the pool).

Turn on the pump with the filter in the recirculate or whirlpool setting. (Don't set on "filter" setting until after you have backwashed sand first.)






Now you can begin to inspect for leaks and tighten connections as needed. This topic is covered in our next blog entry.