Don't Wait Too Late to Prepare Your Pool for Summer Fun

Winterizing chemicals only last through the winter! 

As temperatures rise in the spring, the water under the pool cover begins to heat up. Even though the pool is not exposed to the sun, the warm water under the cover begins to encourage the growth of bacteria, water molds and algae. Very quickly, any traces of sanitizing chemicals left in the water disappear as they react with the growing organisms. This leaves the pool water unprotected. This has now become the perfect environment for bacteria, water molds and algae to grow and multiply very rapidly.

Problems always cost more than prevention!

Some pool owners think they are saving money by waiting until the end of May or early June to uncover and begin operating their pool for summer. This couldn't be further from the truth.

Consider the following, CHEMICALLY, you would need:

For a really green 10,000 gallon pool, you would need, on the average at least 10 lbs (usually much more) of a superchlorinating product, a bottle of flocculant, a bottle of stronger-more costly algaecide to fix the problem.

For the same sized pool, opened 4 weeks earlier, you would need on the average 1lbs of superchlorinating product per week, 2-3 Smart Sticks per week, 3 ounces of algaecide per week.

Not factored into the first scenario above...YOUR TIME and TROUBLE!

BELOW: Steps to open your above ground pool: (For a personal prescription and friendly advice, bring us a water sample! We will tailor your opening to your needs.)

Plan to attend Pool School at POOLCO!

Clean the cover with BioGuard StowAway (or it WILL SMELL really, really bad next fall when you need to winterize your pool!) Do yourself a favor and dispose of any cover that has developed pinholes from the cover fabric pulling apart (or you will be pumping pool water from under the cover next spring when you open the pool....)

Tighten all hose connections -  SUPER TIGHT! 

Tighten connections

The manufacture of flexible filter system connection hose recommends changing these annually. 

Biofilms develop inside the hoses that will require additional chemical treatment. 

In addition to this, the sun is very harsh and drying on the plastic. The bend in the hose can crack and then leak (and unwanted "fountain"...)

Remove skimmer plate.

How high is the water level? If there is enough water added to the pool - and the water is clear (you can easily see the bottom) - then beginning running the filter system.

Immediately test and chemically treat the pool water.  Winterizing chemicals are often used up by end of April, sometimes sooner, if winter and spring temperatures were above average.

Bring a sample of water (16 ounce) to POOLCO for a complete water analysis. We will make opening dosage recommendations and customize your instructions based on your pool's needs, your budget and your time!

Run the filter 24 hours a day for several days until the water clarity and chemical balance are perfect! Then you may reduce filter time to 8 - 12 hours per day (with the use of a timer - or you WILL forget to run filter!)

** If there is a layer of fine dirt (or worse) on the bottom of the pool you must remove this from the pool. Come see us with a water sample for how to best handle this situation.

Our friendly advice is always free!

Manual or Automatic Vacuum?

How to attach a manual (you push/pull) vacuum.

Step by Step instructions for the easiest way to attach your manual vacuum cleaner. (These instructions also work for how to attach your Wahoo automatic cleaner.)

Spring pool opening, manually vacuuming FINE dirt on the bottom of the  pool on waste (or drain).

Spring pool opening, Baracuda Wahoo Cleaner vacuuming the pool.

It's All About Prevention, Prevention, Prevention!

A quick look at the pool daily and follow-up steps go a long way to maintaining a crystal clear, algae-free and sanitary pool for you and your family to enjoy all summer long!

     Once-A-Week maintenance is all that is needed, if after the pool is opened, looks crystal clear and several tests indicate that you are maintaining proper sanitizer levels.

     Check the pool after significant rainfall/storm or heavy use (a lot of people for a few hours or a lot of hours with fewer people!) Dogs using the pool? Test and add products more frequently!

            CIRCULATE The water needs to be circulated every day.  Run the pump at least 8 - 12 hours per day – a timer helps. 24 hours a day is okay. 

FILTER The filter needs to be kept clean. Dirt and oils collecting on top of the sand can greatly reduce the flow of water back to the pool. This is done by either backwashing (as dirt collects in the sand filter increasing the pressure and slows down circulation of the water) OR by chemically cleaning the sand media (as oils from the environment accumulate in the pores of the sand). How filter system works.

     How often will vary depending on your particular equipment and the time of year. Watch the water flow and/or monitor the pressure gauge, if you have one. Start with weekly cleanings and adjust as needed.  

     DO NOT BACKWASH UNLESS NECESSARY! A slightly “dirty” sand filter is sticky and attracts finer particles. Chemically clean the sand every 4- 6 weeks or change the sand annually.

           CLEAN The surfaces (sides and bottom) need to be kept free from biofilms, dirt and debris. You will have to vacuum and or brush the surfaces periodically to maintain it - weekly is ideal.


     The skimmer and pump baskets need to be checked and emptied of debris. Blocked baskets can greatly reduce flow of water back to the pool.

 




FILL Maintain the proper water level.   

   

    TEST  Test the sanitizer and PH every day. Professionally test at PoolCo at least 3 times a year. Before you open, before you winterize, and before the 4th of July. The purpose of testing is to catch slight imbalances before they become BIG imbalances. Worth the extra effort if you want to avoid algae and cloudy water – AND SAVES YOU TIME AND MONEY!!!

    ADD YOUR BIOGUARD 3 STEPS WEEKLY Add the proper amounts of chemicals as they are recommended. ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW PRODUCT LABEL DIRECTIONS!

 

1) Sanitize – a small amount added daily to keep the pool ready for swimmers and kill any new bacteria, algae and any other living organisms that can get into the pool (because it is outside and not covered.)

2) Algicide – a good quality one (cheap algicides are a waste of your money –basically just soap) a few ounces a week or after a rainfall.

3) Shock - The water needs to be periodically super sanitized to disinfect the water, kill bacteria, algae, other organisms and oxidize wastes. After you shock, do not use the pool until all chemical levels are back to normal and the water is crystal clear.

The last word about pools – TEST YOUR WATER AS FREQUENTLY AS NEEDED! Usually once a week is enough.

The only way to be sure that our recommendations were effective is to verify through testing (at home & PoolCo).

Every pool and spa is different. You may have to adjust the amount of chemicals and schedules presented here.

ALWAYS seek the advice of a pool professional at PoolCo, if you have questions or are having problems.

     .... ATTEND Pool School at PoolCo, to hear AND see much more!

     Call to reserve your spot today - 529-3200.

Are YOU (And Your Pool) Ready for Summer?

Are you ready?

If the pool was winterized properly and you open early, proper cover removal will ensure that your pool opens relatively clear.


Basic Steps to Opening and Preparing Your Pool for Summer:

Plan to attend Pool School at POOLCO!

Remove water & debris from the top of the cover (and pool deck if you have one). DO NOT LET ANYTHING FROM THE TOP OF THE COVER GET INTO THE POOL!

Remove cover. You should be able to "float" the cover over the surface of the pool, if you have correctly followed our advice.

Clean the cover with BioGuard StowAway (or it WILL SMELL really, really bad next fall when you need to winterize your pool!) Do yourself a favor and dispose of any cover that has developed pinholes from the cover fabric pulling apart (or you will be pumping pool water from under the cover next spring when you open the pool....)

Tighten connections.

Attach Filter and Pump. Did you need to change your filter sand this year? Did you need to chemically clean the sand with BioGuard Filter Cleaner?

Tighten all hose connections -  SUPER TIGHT! 

The manufacture of flexible filter system connection hose recommends changing these annually. Biofilms develop inside the hoses that will require additional chemical treatment. In addition to this, the sun is very harsh and drying on the plastic. The bend in the hose can crack and then leak (and unwanted "fountain"...)

Screw in all pump and filter plugs.

Remove skimmer plate.

Remove plugs and skimmer covers from the pool.

How high is the water level? If there is enough water added to the pool - AND THE WATER IS CLEAR WITH NO FINE DEBRIS ON THE FLOOR** - then beginning running the filter system. Run the filter 24 hours a day for several days until the water clarity and chemical balance are perfect! Then you may reduce filter time to 8 - 12 hours per day (with the use of a timer - or you WILL forget to run filter!)

** If there is a layer of fine dirt (or worse) on the bottom of the pool you must remove this from the pool. Come see us with a water sample for how to best handle this situation.

Vacuum on waster or drain...

Immediately test and chemically treat the pool water.  Winterizing chemicals are often depleted by spring, especially if winter and spring temperatures were above average.

Algae starts small...

JUST BECAUSE THE POOL IS COVERED -  BACTERIA, WATER MOLDS, AND ALGAE CAN STILL REPRODUCE!

Bring a sample of water (16 ounce) to POOLCO for a complete water analysis. We will make opening dosage recommendations and customize your instructions based on your pool's needs, your budget and your time!

 Our friendly advice is always free!

How to Clear (and Prevent) Cloudy Swimming Pool Water

Cloudy Swimming Pool Water - The Common Causes

Number One Reason?  Lack of chlorine or SoftSwim "C" Clarifier.

You absolutely must maintain a chlorine or SoftSwim "C" level in your pool 100% of the time.

* If the pool goes without chlorine (or "C") for a 12 - 24 hours, your
pool water may experience SLIGHT cloudiness.

Usually a double shock treatment will be enough treatment to fix the problem and then leave enough residual chemical to protect the pool water from new threats.

* If the pool goes without chlorine /SoftSwim "C" for ALL of April and May with a winter cover still on the pool, you will experience ALL sorts of problems (and expense).

A double shock treatment will NOT be enough.



How Much Is Enough?

SoftSwim "C" Test Strips (square on the right)
The top strip has a great "C" level - dark purple.
The bottom strip has a zero "C" level - pink, no color change.

How then do you know if you have added the correct amount of sanitizing chemicals to kill the bacteria and algae in your pool water?

The only way to know is to test your pool water frequently!

Test daily early in the spring (or if you are new to pool ownership). Once you are confident you are maintaining a good chlorine / SoftSwim "C" level, then testing once a week should be sufficient.

Chorine Test Strips (square 2nd from the left)
Top strip, a great chlorine level of at least 5 ppm - dark purple.
Bottom strip, 0 chlorine level - yellow, no color change.

Testing after a heavy rain or heavy use (like a pool party) is also a good idea to detect a decline in sanitizing levels.

Test at home with test strips. "OTO" yellow drop kits are not preferred to test for free and available chlorine residuals. Bring a sample to PoolCo for complete testing at least 3 times a year: when you open the pool, after the 4th of July and before you winterize your pool.

Don't let chlorine or SoftSwim levels fall to low levels. 



"Tug of War"

Your pool is essentially in a "tug of war" of pool water vs. nature (algae/bacteria, etc.).  Pool chemical levels create a "barricade" to keep the "enemy" out.

Low levels are easily and quickly "knocked" down by bacteria and algae.

Your best defense against new invading algae and bacteria is to maintain chlorine and SoftSwim levels at the upper end of the safe and proper chemical ranges.


Why you should look at the pool every day.  

Does it look brilliant and sparkling? Or does it seem dull?

Why? Algae is either the beginning or
ending of a cloudy water problem.

Live algae is in the swimming pool pool starts as dull, hazy pool water. Because algae multiplies extremely rapidly, the pool will then go from cloudy to green ("mysteriously") overnight. If you are looking at the pool daily you can see this happening before is becomes a huge, expensive problem. Verify by testing the water and you will discover there is NO chlorine or SoftSwim "C". Immediately add a double dose of shock treatment and bring a sample PoolCo to have the water analyzed and receive further instruction.

Dead algae is still in the swimming pool pool. Okay, now you have a great chlorine or SoftSwim "C" residual on your test strip - but the pool is still really cloudy blue, gray or yellow. Dead algae are quite difficult to remove, especially with sand or cartridge filters. Special instructions are needed to quickly turn this situation around. Otherwise your pool water may remain cloudy all summer.


Other Causes - Some Common, Some Not So Common:

Rarely is cloudy water caused by just ONE issue. Normally it's a combination of things happening or not happening.

Filtration System:
Pool pump not running long enough. It must run a minimum of 10 - 12 hours a day.

Air leak from the suction side of your filtration system.

Low pool water level allowing pool skimmer to suck air.

Dirty Filtration System. Change sand yearly in non-chlorine (Softswim, Baquacil, etc) pools. Chemically clean every 4-6 weeks with StripKwik or Softswim Filter Cleaner.

Pool needs to be backwashed. However, backwash filter only when necessary (when pressure increases on pressure guage and circulation of the water has slowed).

Swimming pool pump strainer basket extremely full of bugs, leaves, pine needles, etc.

Pump impeller all stopped up with leaves, pine needles, etc.

Filter solidified with calcium or other minerals.

Cartridge swimming pool filter cartridge needs to be replaced. The filters lose their effectiveness each year. If the "pleats" have collapsed the filter is useless. If the filter has not regularly and consistently been chemically cleaned it will be clogged and is useless.

Multiport swimming pool valve gasket damaged.

Incorrect sand used instead of swimming pool filter sand.

Pool Chemicals:

High pH or Total Alkalinity.

Calcium hypochlorite pool shock or chlorinating powder used incorrectly. 

High calcium in swimming pool fill water.

Adding chlorine to a Baquacil or Softswim or other off brand of non-chlorine pool.

Adding copper algaecide to Baquacil or Soft Swim or other off brand of non-chlorine pool.

Overdose of swimming pool clarifier. (A little goes a long way.)

Overdose of stabilizer WAY too high ( > 200 ppm).

Use of copper ionizers or liquids, without sufficient shocking.

Repeated use of (cheap, gallon sized) "foamy algaecides" to "prevent" pool algae.

Other Factors:
"High Bather Load" - a lot of people in the pool and/or for a extend period of time. The smaller the pool the more likely cloudy water will happen 2 - 24 hours later.

Too much "Swimmer Waste" - too much sweat or (yuck) urine in the pool.

Excessive tree pollen in pool.

Dust blown into pool.

Pool vandalized with soap, detergent, motor oil, etc.

Large "Wedding Cake" style in-pool steps used in SoftSwim or Bacquacil pools.

Not brushing pool walls weekly to remove biofilm.

Want more?
Here's a link to THE best list of causes you'll find ANYWHERE on the internet:
Par Pools (BioGuard Dealer located in Connecticut) Cloudy Water List

Why! Why! Why! No Chlorine Reading on my Test Strips!

Here's the situation:

"Why when lots of shock was added to the pool and I know it's there, I get no reading on 3 different test kits.  I tested immediately after adding the shock, I got a reading of 10 (extreme high). In 5 hours no reading at all (extreme low). I used shock from two different sources. Also, I never had this problem in 30 years." 

It's not the product.

It's not the test kits. 

You simply have not added enough chlorine!

You must add enough chlorine to react with all of the organic matter, algae (live and dead) and wastes in the pool, pipes and filters. 

Green pool. Cloudy pool.

Obviously, if the pool is cloudy or green with algae, you will need to add large doses of chlorine shock. It's easier to understand why you can't establish a chlorine reading if a pool is in that type of condition and obviously needs extreme chemical treatment.

Clear pool.

However, you can have a clear pool and not be able to establish a free chlorine reading.  The pool appears clear. Yet no reading on your testing equipment. That's because what you can't see is microscopic in size (bacteria and particles). By the way, if I looked at your "clear" pool, I would probably not consider it clear, but dull looking. An officially clear pool is CRYSTAL clear and sparkling!

So then, how do you know how much is enough?

ANSWER: Until you get a free chlorine level to last through an overnight period, you will probably not have added enough. 

For the best results bring a sample of your pool water to PoolCo for a complete computerized water analysis. We will customize a plan and diagnose proper dosages for helping overcome this chlorine demand situation. Best of all, the test is free!

As for why this has never happened to you before: 

There could be many explanations for why you never had the problem before. Closing too early in the fall or opening too late in the spring. Winterizing chemicals only last for a very short time once the water under the cover begins to heat up. Older pool cover with pin holes?

SAFETY NOTE: NEVER Add shock through the skimmer! Always add pool shock to water, either directly to the pool or add to a large bucket filled with water.

Pool equipment and chemical manufacturers advise not to do this, as it may damage equipment or cause a dangerous chemical reaction.

Older Winter Pool Covers That May Have a Pinholes

Do you have a solid winter pool cover that has developed small pin holes?


Small holes in a solid cover can allow you to pump out pool water.


How do you avoid pumping out water from under the pool cover? 


1. Place your Cover Saver non electric pump 3' to 5' from the side of the pool where you plan to pump off the water. Now put a Frisbee or similar object under the Cover Saver.   Only water that collects in the Frisbee will be pumped.


2. Wrap a large brick or patio block in duct tape (nothing larger than 8" x 8" x 2") and place on top the pump to help weight it and the cover down.


3. Using a vacuum pole with a pool brush attached, start by pushing or pooling the water on top of the cover to to the pump. More...


Once you get the cover off seriously consider discarding this cover and plan to purchase a new winter cover in the fall.

Consider the following helpful tips to avoid pin holes in your new winter cover:

If excessive weight is allowed to collect on the cover:

     The water under the cover will become displaced, resulting in the loss of the chemically treated  water in the pool.

     Water is very heavy and allowing over 6 inches of water, ice or snow may damage to your cover by streching it.

     Extreme amounts of water on top of the cover can pull the sides of the pool in, causing permanent damage to the pool.

     If the cover tears, debris from the cover will fall into the pool water and cost you time and money to clean.

STEP 4 How to Open Your Pool - Bringing all the Steps Together

Generally speaking, most of steps to open your swimming pool are simple and easy to understand:

Follow these steps or plan to attend Pool School, April 28th, 2012 (Saturday 11- Noon).

If you miss the school or are in need of our advice, bring a water sample to our store.

1. Drain, dry and remove a DRY winter cover off the pool.  This is to keep dirty water or debris on top of the winter cover from falling into the pool water. If a lot of water collected on top of the cover and pushed out the pool water underneath - CALL OR VISIT POOLCO BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE WATER OFF THE TOP OF THE COVER or your pool may become damaged.

2. Clean you cover with "Stow-Away" cover cleaner, fold and stuff into a large plastic garbage can with a lid. Protects the cover and helps it last longer. If is damaged or has numerous small holes, throw it away. Don't bother trying to get "one more year" out of it.

3. Inspect the pump, skimmer and filter before attaching to the pool. Change the sand in the filter, if needed. Inspect the filter hoses. If they are more than 2 years old they might need to be replaced. (Not worth taking the chance on them splitting during the pool season.) Attach all drain plugs. Inspect the skimmer for cracks. Lubricate the oring under the clear lid above the pump basket. Plug in the pump for 10-15 seconds. Does it sound smooth? Or not start at all? These are all things that are easier to do before you attach the entire system to the pool.

4. Connect the filter system to the pool.  Be sure that every connection, lid, plug, etc. are tight! Any gap (leak) in the system will either suck in air or drip water. (Air leaks will be covered in an upcoming post.)

5. If you use them, remove the winter plug from the return jet. Remove the cover plate from the front of the skimmer. Tighten the skimmer screws, be careful though to not over tighten them.

6. Finish filling the pool. Fill the pool until the water level is 2 inches below the top of the skimmer opening (inside the pool).

7. Backwash the filter for 3-5 minutes before you begin filtering the water. New sand will need to be backwashed longer. If you didn't chemically clean the sand last fall before closing your pool, consider doing this now. Chemically cleaning your sand is important. (Just imagine what your hair would look like after a month, if you didn't shampoo it.) Come see PoolCo for proper instruction on how to get the "Strip-Kwik" filter cleaner into your sand filter.

8. Before you begin filtering and stirring up the pool water, it's best to bring a sample of pool water to PoolCo for computerized water analysis.  We will help you balance and sanitize the water quickly and correctly. Most importantly, we can help you prevent problems (saving you time and money) before they have a chance to begin. We will customize a pool opening for you, based on what the water looks like, if the pool is partially in the ground, if the cover fell in, or what ever the situation may be. PoolCo is here to help!

Season Supply Savings going on right now during PoolCo's Algae Free Guarantee Sale!

Visit us or call 618-529-3200 for more information.

STEP 5: How to Open Your Pool - How to Attach and Vacuum Your Pool

There are several ways to attach your vacuum to your swimming pool. This method is the best for those new to swimming pool maintenance. Because the pump is turned off while you are attaching the vacuum, you are best able to keep the pump primed and not lose suction.

 

Vacuuming should be done once a week. The more a pool is used the less vacuuming you will do. (The dirt is dissolved into the water and able to reach the skimmer and main drain to be filtered, instead of sitting on the pool floor. Don't be fooled into believing that you don't have to vacuum if you have a main drain. More on why main drains are useless in a later post.)

 

A lot of pool owners prefer using an automatic pool cleaner, the Baracuda, Ranger or Wahoo to clean their pools. We will feature the Wahoo automatic pool cleaner in an upcoming post.

Troubleshooting

Tighten the skimmer connection?

No suction. The filter system has lost its prime (not sucking water). Could be many things. Air leak or a restriction in the system. Tighten all possible ways air can seep into system. Remove all restrictions: empty baskets, clear pump impeller, backwash. See PoolCo for a complete list of solutions.

Dirty water returning back to the pool. How dirty is the pool? You might be better off vacuuming on the waste or drain filter setting. See PoolCo for complete directions on how to do this.

Tighten lid on pump?
Replace pump lid oring or lubricate?
Replace pump plug oring?

Don't backwash too much! Only backwash when the circulation has slowed and the pressure gauge reads 10 lbs over normal pressure. If you backwash too often (thinking that it will help the filter to work better) you are actually slowing the sand's ability to clear the water. Small particles trapped in the sand are sticky. As they collect in the filter, they will help attact more and more particles. 

Algae Free Guarantee - PoolCo Peace of Mind

 The Basics

– Algae should not grow if you properly care for your pool.

– Algae will not grow if you use BioGuard products and follow

   one of our proven pool care systems.

– Algae can’t grow because you’ll get free product to kill it does! 

 

   

PoolCo Guarantees it!



Poolco Guarantees It!

PoolCo guarantees that if you, our valued customers,
follow one of our easy chemical programs,
your pool will remain FREE FROM ALGAE.







1. Follow a BioGuard Pool Program



If you follow our program and your pool develops algae, PoolCo will troubleshoot the chemical problem and...

GIVE YOU THE ALGAE  KILLING CHEMICALS FOR FREE that we feel are needed to clear your pool. 

2. Run the pump and filter

at least 10 to 12 hours a day.





Algae clearing chemicals included in our program are shock and algaecide products of our choice that we feel will eliminate your algae.  



3. Have your water tested every 4-6 weeks





Any other chemicals needed to balance the water (which should already be balanced according to our plans) or to help eliminate any non-algae problems such as mineral or pollen problems, etc. will be the sole responsibility of you, the consumer.                

 

 



4. Maintain BioGuard
Optimizer Plus at 30 to 50 ppm.



For the GUARANTEE to work, your pool must test in the proper sanitizer range and the pool must be balanced. Otherwise, we know that problems will develop.

If the pool tests properly and you have algae after following one of our algae-free plans, we will step up and give you the chemicals to kill the algae.

But guess what? If you follow our rules, we don't think you'll have to worry about it.

Visit PoolCo today and find out how to qualify for our

Algae Free Guarantee.   



Ask for a copy of how to qualify for  PoolCo's Algae Free Guarantee 



To be fair PoolCo cannot, obviously, be responsible for:

1. Algae present upon opening the pool or any algae problems present before starting one of our programs or algae due to the discontinuation of one of our programs.

2. Inadequate filtration - we recommend that you run your filter a minimum of 12 hrs per day.

3. Dirty filters - backwash and clean your filter as needed to maintain proper flow.

4. Improper maintenance - empty baskets regularly to maintain proper flow, vacuum and brush pool walls as needed.

5. Improper water balance - the key base to all plans is a balanced pool so that other chemicals work effectively and for swimming comfort and equipment care. This includes pool water displacement from rain during periods of heavy and continued days of rainfall and water displacement frequent topping off of pool water from your garden hose during periods of drought.  Generally speaking, bring your pool water in for testing and rebalance if more than 12 inches of new rain or fill water has been added to the pool in less than a week.